The Rocio Pilgrimage in Estepona in mid May

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Nuestra Senora del Rocio, la Blanca Paloma, La Reina de las Marismas.  Our Lady of the Dew, the White Dove, the Queen of the marshlands.  

Every year, in May, several score devotees leave the town mid morning on their 10 day "Romeria" or pilgrimage across southern Andalucia to the village of El Rocio just outside the little town of Almonte, in the province of Huelva.

Partly religious, partly folklore, and partly groups of friends travelling, eating, singing and dancing together, the pilgrimage brings a million "Romeros" to El Rocio, dressed in traditional Andalucian garb - the women in frilled flamenco dresses, the men in tight short jackets.  Singing, doing flamenco clapping, playing flutes and beating drums, they walk in front of, beside and behind the little silver-adorned horse-drawn carriage bearing their "Simpecado" - the symbol of the Virgin, surrounded by flowers.

In Estepona they hold a Solemn Mass in the Church of San Jose; that alone is spectacular, the church full of traditional costumes for the Mass, and then they all come streaming out!  They then go through the streets in procession to the church of Nuestra Senora del Carmen before starting on their long trek - over 200 km, about 50 hours on foot.  

The procession is led by men on horseback with the traditional hard-brimmed hats and often leather chaps. You can hear their music and the firecrackers that they light as they process through the town. People stand on their balconies and throw down petals onto the procession, stopping from time to time to sing "saeta" songs to the Virgen.  

On the first day they just walk for 2-3 hours, their first "campsite" being in the church forecourt at the Carmen Church, where, following a blessing from the priest to wish them well, they start things off with a giant, somewhat boozy and noisy picnic to which all comers are invited. Including you!

The next day they start out on their 10-day trek. They camp out at night, partying by the campfire in the evening after a long day of walking, often under hot sun, sometimes in mud.

With tractors or 4x4 vehicles pulling their gaily-decorated gypsy-style caravans, they ford the rivers between them and their final destination, which is one of the highlights of Andalusia folklore and religious devotion.

It's a sight not many visitors get to see, so do ask if you are in Estepona in May.

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